Prior to assembly, apply stain to the lip of the raised panel that will fit into the groove, since the final finishing will not penetrate this area. I compensated by ripping the rail stock 1/8” oversize, in the step above.) Once you are satisfied with your set up, then cut the interior sides of all the rails and stiles.
To achieve the full quarter-round on profile I had set the depth to remove about 1/8” of stock from the width. (For my positive cutter this was not an option. Adjusted the depth of cut for a full reveal of the quarter round, but no more than is needed to maintain the full width of the stock. Adjust height of the cutter’s slot segment 1/8” off the shaper table surface. Setup the positive cutter in shaper to profile the inside edges of the rails and stiles.
The door panel is then cut to size, per the cut list. This results in the face of the panel flush with the face of the rails and stiles after assembly. This thinner dimension of the panel is required because it is set back 1/8” from the rear of these components.They will be trimmed flush in later operations. Then, crosscut them to length leaving them somewhat oversized. Rip the rails and stiles to width per the cut list. This is what most door cutter sets are designed for. Mill the stock to 3/4″ thickness for the stiles and rails, and to 5/8” thickness for the panel.This bit is used on both the doors and drawer fronts of a cabinet. Some door cutter sets also come with an outside edge profile bit.This allows them to make the bit smaller and lighter. Due to the limitations of some routers, router bit manufacturers have produced raised panel cutters that require the panel be vertical when pushed past the cutter. This is one time you will absolutely want to keep all the safety guards on your machine.
It can be a bit intimidating when spinning at 12,000 RPM (shaper) or 20,000+ RPM (router). This can be a very large cutter due to the size of most raised panel profiles. This cutter is used on the ends of the rails to cut the mating profile.